Sunday 15 July 2018

Greek Ruins - In At The Deep End

 Scarfing a bit of impromptu graffiti hunting on to a week abroad with the family was never likely to prompt delirious enthusiasm on their part. On the coach trip from the airport to the hotel that was to be our compound for a week of what turned out to be fairly British weather, our coach driver threw in an “Original Greek” last moment sharp left down a genuinely uncharted back road to avoid the flash floods that greeted our arrival on Rhodes Island. As the coach sluiced its way through a landscape of grit, puddles and olive trees I spotted in a depression about half a click off the road a concrete tower with multi level graffiti on it, just visible over the tops of overgrown vegetation.

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Poolside feat UPS


A few days later Lady Nolions and I borrowed a pair of bicycles and rode tempo along the coastline to locate that building, what a rewarding quest it turned out to be. Her opinion may differ.

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The way onto the property was barred by a metal gate, its intact indeed pristine appearance spoke of maintenance and possibly some security but this impression was completely at odds with the unkempt bushes cascading unchecked over the paths. Chucking our bikes over the gate we strolled along an overgrown driveway, minds fogged partly by concerns for our safety, who knows who or what we might encounter, and partly by (my) great excitement at a completely unexpected diversion on what was supposed to be nothing other than a short family break in the sun. Ironically the weather back home was better!

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The tone was set at the end of the winding road by what appeared to be a covered entrance, a flat concrete roof supported by what looked at first glance to be dry stone walls leading out to a wide sweep of concrete step descending into a bowl-like collection of empty pools and changing rooms. This portal had a striking design, evidence of a concern for style elevated this way above a mere utilitarian gateway and this indulgence was apparent in almost all the architecture around the pool area.

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This huge property, possibly about 300m – 400m across each of the main axis was dominated by aquatic facilities, brutal concrete buildings and some very curious but none the less pleasingly designed architectural features. As we descended through various terraced levels, nosing into doorways and stepping over putrified animal carcasses, a trove of urbex and graffiti writer’s delights was revealed.

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Graffiti writers had previously discovered the spot, evidenced by tags and graffiti pieces scattered across the property.

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KELN RNA, MAOK RNA


That earlier mention about the road being uncharted was not a dramatic exaggeration, this Greek Island is on the Turkey facing Balkan frontline and along this coast road are frequent concrete gun emplacements, there are rumours that this is a road that is deliberately omitted from public maps to sow utter confusion into marauding Ottomans and visiting tourists. Not however adventurous graffiti writers, among the various international flags metaphorically stamped on this ruin were markings from Norway, Serbia, Greece, Belgium and Germany to name a few.

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KGZ


This particular fetish for trespassing on derelict and abandoned property is known among its die hard adherents as Urbex, urban exploration. Exploring such properties stimulates a merry-go-round of questions which come up again and again in each corner of the property and with each new vista; what was this place used for, why is it no longer in use, when was it built, when was it abandoned, is it safe?

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DAFT, TREND in at the deep end


At first glance this property appeared to be a water park, though if this was a watery amusement or therapeutical adjunct to a hotel resort surely there would have been far more residential zones than the few small rooms found in a nearby small two story building. There were however a bizarrely disproportionate number of changing rooms.

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KELN, MAOK, GAZA, NBGS & DIRECT hogging the changing facilities


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KELN RNA, City Lovers Germany, DSC, Skrue, Swastika


Post urbex, an internet search revealed very little information about this plot and comparatively few photos can be found online, though the urbex community is notably obsessed with secrecy and much of its information could well be hidden in password protected sites. Some sources suggest the complex was built by the Generals during the Greek Junta (1967 – 74), supposedly this was to be the aquatics centre for the Balkan Games.  The complex was apparently finished in the early 1970s, dates and details are very sketchy, which would make them either very early for Greece’s 1974 edition of the Balkan Games, completely unlikely knowing Greece; or too late for the 1967 games, completely likely knowing Greece. The contradictory indications are that the site was either never opened or it was used just once, both pointing towards a similar kind of conclusion, some kind of extravagant white elephant. A wiki page about the Junta identifies a financial scandal in which low interest loans were awarded for construction of hotels, "Several such hotels were abandoned unfinished as soon as the loans were secured, and their remains still dot the Greek countryside". Could this be one such facility? One ancient Greek I spoke to who lived locally said they were used for the games… all of which muddies any confident conclusion on date and usage. The uncertainties might be resolved by extensive research in the Greek Land Registry archives (I can hear snorts of Greek laughter right now!).

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JTP goes "High Diving"


The relatively recent intrusion of graffiti into this space can be seen in the way that great swathes of virgin wall remain unpainted and there is just not too much evidence of writers “going over” eachother. This would be in complete contrast to, for example, an abandoned property in England’s home counties which once it becomes known in the graffiti community will normally get blitzed pretty constantly.

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Rare non letterform decorative feature


These poolside shower facilities were bizarre, the pipes look more appropriate to a gas chamber and the structures appeared to be designed to ensure that three people at a time could shower with eachother in complete privacy from other prying eyes!

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RNA, Trouble KGZ


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KELN, UPS, SKRUE


Images of the main pool said to be photographed in 1999 show at that time it was completely untouched by graffiti, as do photos in another gallery uploaded in 2011 though the date of the photographs can't be confirmed. Photos uploaded 12 years ago show the material and the vegetation in remarkably similar appearance and condition to that in 2018 but again, no graff at all and indeed images from 2013 are similarly clear of graffiti. A photo from May 2017 shows the main pool having exactly the same graffiti as that found on this visit in June 2018. Suffice to say this is not a high churn graffiti hall of fame.

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HUS 101 (or poss HOS), IEZO RNA, JTP Crew, MAOK RNA


The main pool was flanked by two subterranean service passages which contained far more underwater viewing windows than would normally be considered acceptable in a public swimming pool, but may just about be acceptable for filming swimming competitions.

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TROUBLE, DAFT, TREND, JTP


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Double TROUBLE KGZ


This amazing structure suggests water slide but there was no evidence of plumbing to direct water down the chute, anyone venturing down the slide would sand a fair amount of epidermis off their derriere; also it lacked the usual flat “run off” but the drop would be too short to avoid hitting the bottom. The architecture looked stunning, the functionality abysmal and we remain none the wiser as to what this thing might have been.

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LIEGE (JTP), Antoine AM


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KELN, MAOK, GAZA, FREERIDE


In terms of graffiti, evidently a local crew RNA has been in a few times, dates on pieces indicated 2013 and 2017, google indicates impressive repping around Europe by these writers.

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KELN RNA, MAOK RNA, GAZA, NBGS


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MAOK RNA


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RNA


DSC Arminia Bielefeld is a German sports club specialising in Figure Skating, Norwich City played them at football in 2017, scraping a 3-1 win.

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DSC Hooligans


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RASKAL, DSC


One curious finding was coming across writers putting up 101 which is a bit problematic as 101ers is an experienced and prolific Athens graffiti crew made up of The Krah, Fors, Spit, Eon, Dr Ren, Mint and Epic, its origins go back several decades; the 101 in Rhodes is seemingly being put up by Hus and others and the copying of the crew name is unlikely to amuse members of the original crew.

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HUS 101


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HUS 101 (or is it HOS?)


Everywhere you looked there was more graffiti yet at the same time, there were plenty of blank walls and potential canvasses.

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SKRUE, HEST (Nor)


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JTP


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NBGS


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Serbian Team


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DIRECT JTP


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IEZO RNA, JTP Crew


In a number of spots there were vaguely occultish symbols though they actually looked like something teenagers might scribble in response to a dare.

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TROUBLE, SKRUE, 666


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The property had three distinct areas, there were the aquatic facilities, there were primarily changing facilities arranged on a slope which surrounded about 1/3 of the circumference of the pools; and set about 250m away over a rise was a set of buildings arranged around an abandoned garden, the buildings included a very small number of sleeping cabins and one quite large hall.

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Watersports


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Poolside


Exploring abandoned buildings in the UK be hazardous for many many reasons, some of relate to lack of light which means dangers such as broken floors, missing manhole covers, missing railing or loading bay platform drops can be missed with dire consequences, strolling around this property in glorious sunshine meant these dangers could be easily spotted.

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And then a couple of hundred meters from the aquatic facilities were some office and accommodation facilities

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Typical Greek taxi rank


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Office/Accomodation block area feat HUS 101


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Reception perhaps


Unfinished business - we never got to go to the low buildings up on the ridge in the background in the next shot, perhaps some time in the future we may return. Not sure Lady NoLions will be a willing explorer!

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All photos: Dave Stuart


Thursday 7 June 2018

Meeting Of Styles UK 2018

Meeting Of Styles
Nomadic Community Gardens, Shoreditch
26 - 28th May 2018


At the end of May there is a Bank Holiday in the UK though really no one knows why or cares what for. This provides a marvellous opportunity for a huge array of spraypainting talent to gather in Shoreditch for a frenzy of graffiti and art at the Meeting Of Styles Festival.

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Xenz, Lours, Nerius and Welin exhausting themselves in the creative process


Meeting Of Styles is an international series of festivals which takes place in multiple locations around the world each year, this year 11 events are scheduled spread across the far east, South Africa and 6 cities in Europe. Since 2014 the London edition of MoS has found a home in the extraordinary Nomadic Community Gardens in Shoreditch.   Its heart is a graffiti festival so let’s start with a peek at some of the letterbased highlights.

Xenz embraced the opportunity to chip in a lower key wall after the intensity of his key role in the main wall last year; crumbling ruins overwhelmed by jungle vegetation and scarred by some apocalyptical flood trauma was a smash and guess what, the letters are buried in there!

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Xenz (letters clue further down)


Minto’s colour perspective lines flow under his plastic letters, rise up the wall and soar off into the gridlines of the fence, a wonderful connection between art and location.

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Minto


Neist has an absolute frenzy scorching through his letters, breathtaking as always, go on – do it, you can find the letters in there.

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N E I S T innit


The Krah was seen just inside the Nomadic community Gardens entrance creating one of his swirling characters on a board but on the wall outside he left evidence of his origins in the early Athens graff scene, check out the flowing patterns and soft variations in hue across the fills inside these letters, skills that fans of his illustrative work might not be aware of.

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The Krah 101ers


SkyHigh produced an awesome piece of writing with the letters written as if collaged from about a dozen different pieces.

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Skyhigh


The main wall has gone progressively less graff in recent years, this year 8 artists have created a crazy computer screen on which the use of technology in the creative process is laid bare.

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Right to Left, top first: Voyder, Fanakapan, Aches, Kaes, Jeba, Core246, Samer, Irony


Carleen De Sozer pulled off a stunning wall in collaboration with Candie Bandita, what puzzles me is how did she know that I would photograph it with two biters next to me?

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"Live Life like its Golden" - Carleen de Sozer & Candie


ThisOne got one of the highest reaches of the weekend and produced a stunning wall that stood up well to the challenge of being alongside Nomad Clan, his wall art has developed immensely since the small gothic candles we were lauding just over 3 years ago

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This One


The only other time I have seen a Nomad Clan wall was an absolute banger they produced at Upfest in Bristol last year though this year trumps that experience as this time I saw the finished wall without scaffolding (three cheers for cherry pickers!).

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Nomad Clan


Poor 4-armed Captain Kris seems to have been disturbed in his kitchen by a pair of multi eyed squid from Dahkoh and The Real Dill, this fun piece cleverly uses the layers of walls around the steps to the bridge over the railway. Work in progress shot further down.

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The Real Dill, Dahkoh and Captain kris


 Dan Kitchener replaced his full on colour Kinkao Pedley Street wall with a monochrome piece.

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Dan Kitchener


With large jams such as MoS it is fascinating how the little things that scream “not on the organiser’s who-paints-where list” catch the eye. Si2’s characters on dumpsters raised a smile in several spots in the area, actually looking more spontaneous and less like an exercise in painting virtuosity than when seen on the mock train set up at last year’s Upfest in Bristol.

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"oh you've got blue eyes oh you've got brown eyes" - apologies to New Order and Si2


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"Eyes RIGHT!!" say Si2 and Roo


The UK Meeting Of Styles is organised by End Of The Line and a huge amount of credit goes to Jim Vision, Mattie, Tamara and the many volunteers also involved in keeping the show on the road. End Of The Line have steered the festival through a variety of locations and forms until it has become became the sun drenched (mainly!) spraypaint, food and music party fest it is today.

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Only two winners in a staring contest with Woskerski


In 2008 London’s Meeting of Styles was held on the roof of Village Underground, it felt like small “insider” event with painting and music taking place on the static tube trains now serving as offices above Village Underground with the well known Village Underground Holywell Lane wall as the centrepiece feature wall.

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Meeting Of Styles 2008 including Jim Vision, Xenz, Replete, Snug, Sares, Sune, Twesh, Bonsai, Alfa, Busk et al


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Meeting Of Styles 2008


In 2009 the scale expanded dramatically; from a party base in a disused car park and industrial space on Paul St, now gone, to Sclater St, Bacon St and Bethnal Green Road which provided hundreds of metres of walls and a stage and sound system was set up in the Bacon St car park. So little of the structures painted back then remains.

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MoS 2009 HQ


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INSA, 10foot, Jamo et al, Bethnal Green Rd/ Sclater St junction, MoS 2009


The festival moved up to Islington and I will confess to not attending either of those two years, then following a hiatus of a few years a pivotal move back to Shoreditch occurred. A pinched derelict piece of land trapped between two diverging sets of rail tracks had undergone a strange swap arrangement between two neighbouring land owners and while old owner Network rail fortified, patrolled and defended the barren unused plot – even us photographers were regularly hassled by police and security on the paths bordering the plot, the new owners welcomed community use.

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pre Nomadic Community Gardens 2012


The land was rough and irregular with remnants of old foundations peeking through the crust, weeds sprouted between the cracks and is was prone to flooding.  People loitering in the area were the kind of folk who didn't welcome close scrutiny, if you squeezed under the fence you certainly didn't waste time hanging around in there.

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HowAboutno photographing Sickboy & WordToMother - any one of 1000s of our lunch break photography wanders. Jul 2010


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Sickboy, Orsek et al 2010


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Type, pre Nomadic Community Gardens 2011


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Type, kewl, Klepto, Sickboy, Nemo et al 2012



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After Network Rail's 2012 pre Olympics London wide brownwash, Hekla et al, Dec 2012


Development of the plot was not imminent so the Nomadic Community Gardens organised by Jimmy won permission to make use of the land for positive community purposes for a few years. The first thing Nomadic Community Gardens did was provide local families with small vegetable growing plots by placing raised soil beds on the ground, these have proved a big success and are still in use.

Over the years a variety of structures have been built using upcycled and re-purposed materials and these have provided a base for a variety of community activities and artistic endeavours. There is also now a lovely café on site, a great place to sit in the sun and have a quiet contemplative bite to eat.

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Nomadic Community Gardens 2015


What has been achieved at Nomadic Community Gardens is quite astonishing and it actually contributes directly to the success of the Meeting Of Styles festival. The converse is also true, the festival raises awareness of the Nomadic Community Garden space, not to mention a substantial amount of funds through voluntary donation.

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Nomadic Community Gardens 2018


All this builds an environment where Meeting Of Styles can slot in without causing tension, painting takes place in and around a very chilled party atmosphere which in the daytime, importantly, is very family friendly. The Nomadic Community Garden location now feels incredibly organic, nothing like a “commercial” festival.

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A normal day at Nomadic Community Gardens Jun 2018


The early Nomadic Community Gardens editions of Meeting of Styles were actually rather sprawling affairs with walls being painted on far flung satellite sites, notably the Wheler Street Bridge, hoardings on Redchurch St and even the close to Old Street Roundabout. On this occasion all the walls were at or surrounding the Nomadic Community Gardens or on the Pedley St path that leads from Brick Lane to the gardens. This means it is easier to enjoy all the walls, no “the brilliant wall by that amazing painter I’ve waited all my life to see was a mile away and I missed it”; and it works for the artists too, that sense of a party happening elsewhere that they are not part of has gone.

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In past years there have been incidents with British Transport Police regarding the Meeting Of Styles festival, this year Network Rail turned up and participated in the painting and got a public thank you from Jim Vision, you couldn’t have imagined that 3 or 4 years ago.

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Bridge by National Rail; style by National Rail Fam


Another very noticeable shift that has occurred in the past few years is the street art element has increased significantly. Meeting of Styles is an international organisation that has been going for many many years (some MoS sources say 1997, some say early 2000s) and it is letter based graffiti forms that dominate. Looking back to 2008 and 2009, every named artist had a graffiti pedigree, today many of the contributing artists do not have a graffiti background at all. Some will argue this makes the walls more accessible, we say it all comes together and works wonderfully well.

Tom Blackford aka Infetish & Ewan Ewan
Tom Blackford and Ewan whispering terrible things in someones ear


There was something in the air at the 2018 Meetings of Styles festival, and we are not just referring to the smell of spraypaint mingling with barbecue and assorted herbal fragrances, it was the combination of the great art, the vibe, the food, the music, the chilling with friends, the beautiful weather. This squint at Meeting of Styles is a rather selective viewing, there are many other moments captured and artworks seen that deserve to be featured but there isn't room or time. Also, there is the whole other music dimension of meeting of Styles but graffoto is home sipping its cocoa as that gets into full swing. Meeting of Styles 2018 will go down as a great success and all of it depends so much on the brilliance of the many parties the combine in the organisation of the event but most notably, End of The Line. All of it, other than perhaps the sunshine though if that had not turned up someone would probably have painted it.

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Onefaver cracks on to the right while Captain Kris provides The Real Deal with a supporting hand; also features art of Dahkoh


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ThisOne at the top of his game


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X-E-N-Z


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When yer rabbit's got a gold toof, that's Hard!


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Daytimes - safer for public, and police! 2011

LINKS:

Meeting Of Styles UK

Nomadic Community Gardens: Website     Instagram

End OF The Line 

All Photos: Dave Stuart aka NoLionsInEngland